PYRENEES II - May 2009

The following are purely personal accounts and may be unrecognisable to the others on the trip as we all have our individual take on things!

I first went to the Pyrenees in 2005 to do the Etape - suffering over the Marie Blanc and Aubisque in 40 degree heat, starting 8150th and finishing about 4500th - and have since become the cycling equivalent of a train spotter, returning each year to work my way through the climbs from the Atlas Des Cols Des Pyrenees vols 1 and 2 which give the mountain profiles of all the major climbs. To get a gold star in the book a climb must be completed without touching the ground apart from natural hazards, snow, fallen trees etc.

 

For any anoraks who are interested, I ride a Trek Madone 5.9 with a compact 36 - 27 smallest gear, weighing about 7kg, unfortunately once you add me, a couple of full bottles and a few spares it hits almost 100kg by comparison Ian and Steve total about 70kg.

I think Phil is writing about the first part of the trip so I’ll just include a picture of the pot hole and gravel which are now appearing on all good maps.

Thursday 28th May

 

Cap de Long 2160m / Lac d’ Aumar 2190m are the same climb but split about 3km from the top and are probably one/two of the best and most stunning rides in the Pyrenees; ascending past azure lakes and thundering waterfalls, some of which give an icy blast across the road as illustrated by Duncan.
Being over 2000m, snow can sometimes be an issue at the end of May but fortunately after a big blockage the snow had left just enough road for us to ride - barring a few sections of snow and the odd fallen tree all the way to the top (hairy but exhilarating).
I managed a pretty good face plant into a snow bank on the descent which going from warm and sunny to covered in snow wearing cycling shorts and shirt was a real shock to the system, but strangely refreshing.

Friday 29th May

 

Ardengost 1085m and Bareilles 1050m. Simple enjoyable cycling not too steep and not too long (10km each); quiet roads twisting through woods next to rivers.

Saturday 30th May

Steve had sent an email a couple of days before our arrival “found a little sportif for Saturday what do you think?” and a web address. Had a look and responded “ are you ***** insane!” Having thought about it over night we agreed to give it a go, but 6 Mountains (6100m total) with about 100km of climbing in a route of about 270km for me was a case of keeping going until Colin agreed to stop.

We left the start village after coffee and cake heading for the Marie Blanc (1035m) in a group of about 40 riders with a friendly club run sort of feeling mixed with nervous anticipation.
First mistake of the day, I had fitted my front skewer the wrong way round so my bike computer was not working and for me not to know how much of a climb is still to go is very stressful to say the least.
After an undulating run down the valley I stop at the bottom of the climb for a comfort break with Steve as the rest of the group keep going, this is another mistake as there’s now a biggish gap to close and I’ve forgotten to spin my wheel round.
With Steve chatting and me blowing hard we’re soon back to the group, unfortunately we go straight past as Colin and Duncan are still further ahead, my pretence of easy climbing as we passed the group has also fooled Steve who raises the pace a bit more making me struggle to hold his wheel, for the next 3 or 4 km I can just about hear his chuckling over my breathing, thankfully with 2km to go he heads off to play with someone else.

After a quick coke and the obligatory photograph it's into a truly enjoyable descent with some sweeping bends, fast straights and surprising hairpins. I even stop to spin my wheel round just in case I reach the elusive 50mph.
Big mistake as I start to brake for the next bend I discover that I’ve not closed the lever on my brakes and have taken a big handful nothing. Thanks to the gripping qualities of GP4000S’s and a dry road no harm done but a good lesson re-learned (always check before moving).

On our trip along the valley to the Col du Pourtalet 1794m, our next climb, we collected a group of riders happy to sit behind out of a noticeable head wind and not take a turn on the front, so collectively we decided to keep going past the feed stop and leave the group to enjoy the ham, cheese, baguette and cake buffet.

So Phil’s stopped, Steve’s shot off up the road leaving Colin, Duncan and myself starting a 30km climb in hot conditions with a strong headwind and less than a bottle each, but at least we could work together…NOT!
We spend the next 10km putting in little digs trying to drop each other. With about 18km (about 2 hours) left to climb and almost out of drink Colin and Duncan start to pull away. With lots of open exposed sections it was easy to keep an eye on their progress; Colin soon succumbs to the call of the mountain streams and stops to fill his bottles (no gold star for him).
If it weren’t for the head wind which is now becoming stronger still with gusts enough to stop you dead and the lack of drink, I would be really enjoying the stunning views and peace and quiet, but I’m not; all I can think of is a Big Mac, fries, large coke and getting to the top of this damn hill (Steve’s French club is sponsored by McDonald’s and plastered with the golden arches so I guess advertising does work!).

With about 5km to go I keep hoping the next bend will reveal the summit, but hopes are raised and dashed with every turn. To my surprise I catch Duncan with 1 or 2 km to go, who is suffering with the lack of drink and looking every bit as I feel and we struggle to the top.
Unfortunately the feed station has been stripped bare with only water and some bright green liquid with which Colin had bravely filled his bottles.
Without even bothering to ride the extra 6 feet across the Spain border I get my card stamped, choke down an energy gel, pose for a photo and set off for the 30km descent.
All I can remember is that it seemed a lot of hard riding to keep up with a couple of Basque riders hammering down in front of me.

The feed stop is at the start of the climb of the Col d’ Aubisque (1709m, 17km on the road) and with the skies darkening and spots of rain coming down we decide to give it a miss and move on to the next climb which is the Port de Castet 868m only 5km of climbing, but with 4km at 11% or over I was not looking forward to it.
Thanks to Steve and Colin we rip back down the valley in double quick time, blowing hard and roasting hot we start the climb just as the sun comes back out. This is a seriously steep little hill and Colin and I are soon locked in a wheel to wheel battle and as the gradient kicks up on the hairpins it’s a real struggle just to keep pedalling.
Riding just below the point where you fall over, and with sweat literally running off my chin I actually find a rhythm. Then suddenly the road levels out for ½ km meaning we’d been climbing at 20% plus for the final stretch, which makes me feel better about myself.

My admiration goes to whoever towed the check point caravan up the hill because the coffee was not half bad, so I’ll overlook the piped accordion music for such bravery. You realise just how narrow the road is at speed on the descent, total concentration is essential when meeting ascending riders who are zigzaging across the road.

Back at HQ its Stella on tap and the obligatory ham and cheese baguette . We’re all presented with T-shirts, berets and obliged to pose for a team photo which I hope doesn’t ever appear in public (but see Tourmalet Challenge 2009 pictures). The HQ is now set for a full sit down meal for all riders to be followed by music and dancing we make our excuses and run. For 15 euros this has to be one of the best sportifs in France. Next year all are welcome to join us in starting early and making a proper effort to finish the route.

Sunday 31st May

Ian and Giselle arrive and we have a local ride in the hot afternoon sun which links about 8 or 9 climbs like North Hill and leads to me wishing I’d stayed in bed. Thanks Ian haha! The day's highlight, apart from the food, is Colin going in off the black 6 frames in a row (pool: it means he loses), the low point missing about 20 doubles to get hammered at darts by Duncan.

Monday 1st June

 

I start with a sincere apology to Giselle. If I’d known how hard the climb of the Hospice de France was I would have simply ripped it from the book and never gone near it. Almost as steep as the Port de Castet, but nearly 3 times the length it was definitely not a good first mountain; it’s a good thing it came at the beginning of the day when we were full of energy or it would certainly have ended in tears (mine).
It’s just as well Giselle didn’t have a point of reference or I may have earned a good slap. On the plus side the climb was very quiet with a smooth newly laid black tarmac surface, lots of shade from the pine forest it twists through and the added bonus that even Ian and Steve suffered with the gradient.

The Valley de leys which starts climbing through thick woods with the strong scent of wild garlic hanging in the air and ends at a giant waterfall was the complete opposite with the top 3km pan flat instead of the 6-7 % listed in the book. The Portelon the final climb of the day was an enjoyable climb up to the Spanish border, unfortunately I was playing a climbing mix with lots of drum and bass, coupled with the light rain and minor euphoria brought on by pain killers (knee trouble) I had missed the top and descended for several km’s before realising it was not starting to climb again and kept going for a few more km’s just in case. I think Colin, who had taken longer to eat his sausage wrapped in cheese and was climbing after me, was a little confused by my disappearance at the top.

Best bit of the day: a good cuppa and home made biscuits in the warm sun by the pool, followed by a couple of beers; very relaxing with plenty of laughs, as I remember mostly at my expense, but I sure well deserved. After dinner and the obligatory watching of Bob Roll’s greatest bike crashes, I slope off with a book and a large red wine to contemplate the Tourmalet Challenge, leaving Colin and Duncan locked in Super Mario combat on the Wii.

Tuesday 2nd June: THE TOURMALET CHALLENGE

Real or sub-conscious, as I lay in bed waiting to get up my knees hurt…in fact every bit of my legs hurt and I can tell without opening the shutters it’s going to be cold, grey and damp outside, perhaps if I keep quite they’ll forget about me and leave me in peace…..no such luck !!!!

Being one of the big three climbs in Tour history this is a very hard climb; turning it into a time trial is a twist of evil genius on Steve’s part and proof that cycling is enjoyment and sadomasochism rolled into one. With Ian making an attempt to go under the hour after missing out last year by just over a minute, Colin looking to put things straight after a horror ride last time and Duncan and I fearing the worst it's left to Giselle to make nervous conversation with Steve as we drive to the mountains.
We meet up with Peter Manley, an ex-club member now living in the area, and ride the final few km to the start intending to warm up, but as it’s drizzling with a cold breeze it has little effect in warming me up. Then the big question: what to wear? Too much and you overheat at the bottom, too little and you freeze at the top. I opt for arm and knee warmers and a gilet which leaves me simultaneously too hot and too cold for most of the climb.
I don’t really remember much about the bottom of the climb other than it’s horrible and for the first time in 5 attempts I seriously consider giving up. However, after about 10km I start to feel a bit better and by La Mongie with 3km to go I start to feel quite good, which is surprising as the temperature is down to about 3 degrees with a biting head wind, could be that my legs were then numb enough to stop hurting.

 

The thick misty cloud and snow banks (some up to 20ft deep) are a little disorientating and I arrive at the top rather abruptly: as soon as I stop I find just how cold it is and I am shaking within seconds. As always Steve’s prepared with the heating on full and I dive straight into the warm, leaving him to load my bike.
I’m 5 seconds slower than last year, so all things considered I’m very pleased, but also slightly disappointed (damn those weather gods, haha). Ian ends up about a minute slower with better form than last year, so maybe I should just be pleased.
Click Tourmalet Challenge 2009 for times.

Then, shock horror, I look over to find that the café is closed. I even risk the cold again to make sure, but alas it is closed; no coffee, no cake. Just why did I get up ?????

I only wish I had the ability to convey some of the funny incidents, bizarre situations and fantastic hospitality on this trip, but I don’t, so tales of bat detectors, bottled snails and their like will sadly go untold.

Roger